Busses: 43, 53, 55, 71, 76, 96
Subway Station: Gamla Stan

There seems to be no end to the ancient squares, cobble-stone streets and narrow lanes between medieval houses in Gamla Stan. If you steer clear of the worst tourist traps on Västerlånggatan and use a little imagination, it’s not hard to picture what Stockholm looked like four or five hundred years ago.

Gamla Stan was built at a time when horses and carriages, not cars and trucks, owned the streets. In the 1700s and 1800s, the streets in other parts of Stockholm began to be straightened out and widened but not in Gamla Stan. To this day the streets, alleys and lanes of the old town remain as winding and snug as they were when they were built. Why not go looking for the smallest of them all? Almost a secret passage, Mårten Trotzigs gränd is at places no wider than 90 cm (less than a yard) wide. That provides a gap between the building on either side no greater than a standard inside door opening!

Keep your eyes open in Gamla Stan. There are all kinds of exciting things to discover. Sticking out of the corner of a building at the corner of Stortorget, the Great Square, you can see a cannonball that was shot in anger but didn’t break through the stone wall. Then there’s a statue on a roof facing Skeppsbron that relieves itself whenever it rains. The Royal Palace with its long history is located here, as are some of the city’s best underground museums. And there are scores of small alleyways to explore.

Don’t miss the Royal Treasury or the Royal Armory, both of which are hidden away in the palace cellars. Once you’ve visited the Royal Armory you’ll find it much easier to imagine what the people in the streets of Gamla Stan must have looked like hundreds of years ago. Their clothes, swords and even their carriages are on display there.

Two other not-to-miss museums in the old town include Kungliga Myntkabinettet, the Royal Coin Cabinet, and Postmuseet, the Swedish Post Museum. They may sound boring but I promise you the opposite is true! You can read more about these museums in the “Museums” section of Stockholm4kids.

Here are two more things I’d like to recommend you do before leaving the old town: First, on Stortorget you’ll find the perfect place to see how the Swedes take their coffee breaks in the middle of the mornings or afternoons—with sweets or a sandwich and friends. The café of choice here is called Kaffekoppen. Stop for some fruit juice, tea or coffee and a pastry or pie and enjoy the friendly atmosphere.

Second, the changing of the guard in the outer courtyard of the Royal Palace is quite a sight to see. In the summer, from June to August, a military music corps often participates in the ceremony, which ordinarily takes about 40 minutes. During the rest of the year, there is music only as a part of the parade to the palace and only on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. To find out the latest news about the Royal Guards, visit their website.

Address: Väpnargatan 1
Phone: 08-402 61 30
Busses: 47, 62, 69, 76
Subways station: Östermalmstorg
Guided tour times, admission, etc: www.royalcourt.se

If you are the least bit interested in beautiful, well-trained horses, or even a little curious about the Swedish King’s carriages, cars and limousines, the Royals Stables should absolutely be on your “to do” list in Stockholm. If, when you visit, the King’s horses are out to pasture in the country—usually in the middle of the summer—you’ll at least get to see where they live and work in the middle of the capital. For most of the rest of the year, these beautiful animals are lodged in the Royal Stalls in order to be available at a moment’s notice when the King, Queen or Crown Princess needs to call them to duty.

Some of the carriages still in use here date back to the 1800s, and there are some veteran cars in Hovstallet’s garage too: Among others, a Daimler from 1950 and beautiful old Cadillac Fleetwood from 1969. Because the stables are a busy workplace and not a museum, you are not allowed to wander through the buildings of the compound on your own. You are very welcome to visit the Royal Stables, however, as part of a guided tour. It takes about one hour and I think your entire family will find it interesting.

Address: Drottninggatan 57
Phone: 08-545 287 80
Shop hours, etc: www.buttericks.se (In Swedish – click on “Stockholm”.)
Busses: 1, 47, 57, 69
Subways station: T-centralen

Buttericks is one of those crazy shops that sells everything from metal hand buzzers to whoopee cushions. At this fun little store you can also find such off-the-wall pranks as garlic-flavored candy and plastic “ice cubes,” each with a “fly” inside. You can try out loose noses and other, much more outrageous disguises at no cost, of course, or you may find some little gag that you just have to buy to take home to amaze your friends and fool your foes.

In addition to gags and pranks, at Buttericks you’ll also find costumes, wigs and a thousand other things that can make any party a little more entertaining. Their main store is located on one of Stockholm’s major shopping streets, Drottninggatan, so while you’re checking out a bunch of novelty items, other members of your family can spend their time window shopping nearby. Make sure you drop in if you are anywhere in the vicinity during your visit to Stockholm. You won’t regret it!

Main entrance: Allmänna Gränd 9
Phone: 08-587 50100
Opening times, admission, etc: www.tivoli.se –or– www.gronalund.com
Busses: 44, 47
Streetcar: From Norrmalmstorg and Nybroplan
Ferry: From Gamla Stan and Nybroviken

Here’s a place where you can entertain yourself for days on end if you like roller coasters, concerts, haunted houses and Ferris wheels or simply are fond of cotton candy, popcorn, hot dogs, the wheel of fortune and the penny arcade. Basically there is something here for people of all ages, from kiddie rides to the take-your-breath-away feeling of the “free fall” tower.

They know what they’re doing at Gröna Lund and they’ve been doing it well since they first opened their gates in 1883. With all that experience, they’ve been careful to build up an amusement park where everyone can feel welcome. Gröna Lund is handicap accessible and the staff always puts safety first. This means that some of the rides have height limitations, for safety’s sake, and they really do stick to their rules; but if you are too short now, there are plenty of other rides without limitations to enjoy.

Gröna Lund opens rather late in the day and has different hours from day to day. It’s a good idea to check their website or call 08-587 50100 before you go to check their hours. You should also know that they are only open between the middle of April until the middle of September every year.

Address: Galärvarvsvägen
Phone: 08-587 230 00
Opening hours, admission, etc: www.junibacken.se
Busses: 44, 47 (or 69 to Djurgårdsbron, then walk approximately 250 meters)
Streetcar: From Norrmalmstorg and Nybroplan

Astrid Lindgren is one of the most widely published authors in the world. Her make-believe characters, such as Pippi Longstocking and the Brothers Lionheart, are known and loved by kids on every continent. She is the most widely translated Swedish author ever to live. Even if you’ve never read any of her books, Junibacken is an enchanting storybook world well worth the visit.

Here you can make new friends, borrow books and play with like-minded children from Sweden and abroad, all while your parents are enjoying a cup of coffee in the café. There are lots of things to do from the moment you enter Junibacken. It’s probably a good idea to enjoy the indoor playground before getting on board the storybook train.

And here is a note to smaller children: When you get on the “story train” that will transport you into Astrid’s world, take a parent or an older friend along for the ride. They will probably find it reassuring to have someone’s hand to hold as they are passing through the tunnels. Also, that way you’ll have your own story teller with you as you ride along the storybook tracks.

You’ll probably enjoy Junibacken more if you are seven years-old than if you are twelve, but the entire family can have a good time here together. Astrid Lindgren is incredibly popular among people of all ages in Sweden, and this place will give you a chance to get to know the characters of some other popular Swedish storytellers too. During the summer, getting stuck in a long line can be avoided if you call 08-587 2300 00 before you arrive to reserve your admission tickets, and you may enjoy browsing their website before your visit.

Like Skansen, Junibacken is located on Djurgården, not far from the Vasa Museum, the Nordic Museum, Aquaria and Gröna Lund Amusement Park.

If you love Astrid Lindgren’s stories you really ought to attend one of Proscenia’s performances. They stage plays in some of Stockholm’s best established theaters, such as the Göta Lejon and the Maxim. You can see Pippi Långstocking as a musical, for example, and other well-known children’s stories, as well. Their performances are in Swedish but if you borrow or buy an English version of the book before going to the play, you’ll be able to follow the story and enjoy the play almost as much as if it were in English. Proscenia produces plays for children and adults, 4 years-old and up. For more information about what they are currently up to, take a look at their Swedish language website, check out the theater listings in a local Stockholm paper, or call 08-643 67 00 for both information and tickets.

Parkteatern - Theater in the Park

During the summer months of June, July and August, Parkteatern stages plays in the public parks of Stockholm. They do musical productions, children’s theater, flamenco performances (!) and much more. Eat a picnic and watch a play at the same time. You’ll have to buy your own food, but the performance is completely free of charge—not a bad deal at all. To find out what parks they’re playing in and for other details about the performances check the free weekly newspaper Metro, call 08-50 60 299 or browse their Swedish language website.

The English Theatre Company

Address: Nybrogatan 35
Phone: 08-662 41 33
More information: www.englishtheatre.se (Currently off-line.)

ETC, the English Theatre Company in Stockholm stages a variety of plays every year at Vasan Theater. Most of the productions are serious, adult drama. Almost every December since 1988 the English Theatre Company has produced a more child-friendly play as well—“A Christmas Carol”, which is a musical adaptation of the classic Dickens novel.

Tittut Puppet Theater

Address: Lundagatan 33
Phone: 08-720 75 99
e-mail: info@dockteaterntittut.se

Why settle for just puppets when you can see puppets and live actors together on stage? That’s what they were thinking when they started the Tittut (Peek-aboo) Puppet Theater, located at Lundagatan 33. They have a very small theater here so it is a good idea to reserve your tickets well in advance. Although most of their shows are in Swedish, they sometimes perform in English as well. Their target audience is between the ages of 2-9 years-old (plus parents of all ages, of course). Browse their English language web pages or call 08-720 75 99.

Lilla Ängeln Puppet Theater

Another exceptional puppet group is Lilla Ängeln (the Little Angel). They are a touring ensemble, which means that they don’t have a permanent address or a permanent stage. If you see an ad or poster with their name on it, go see them perform; or you might even give them a call at 08-760 75 50 to find out where they will be playing next.

Teater Pero

Address: Sveavägen 114
Phone: 08-612 99 00
e-mail: info@pero.se

Teater Pero has a wonderful stage in the middle of the city and produces plays for “people who have turned three years-old or more.” They put on an extremely wide range of performances. For more information about what they are up to right now, check out their website or give them a call at 08-612 99 00. Most of their productions are in Swedish.
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Most entertainment productions are in Swedish, of course, but it can be fun just to see all the cameras, lights and Swedish celebrities close-up. The studio floor-manager will let you know when it’s time to applaud anyway. Ordinarily, it doesn’t cost anything to join the audience, but you do need a reservation.

Some programs may have an age limit, so ask when you call. Even if you choose not to join an audience, a visit to the TV4 studios’ restaurant might be fun. They have good food, prepared of course by TV cooks, and who knows? You may end up sitting next to a Swedish TV star reporter!

TV4 (commercial television)
Address: Tegeluddsvägen 4
Booking information: 08-459 40 00
If you can manage the Swedish, you can also make reservations or at least submit your name online at www.tv4.se. Here’s a tip: In Swedish, “audience” is called “publik.”

SVT (public service television)
Address: Oxenstiernsgatan 34
Booking information: 08-784 0000 and ask what programs need audiences.
If you can manage the Swedish, you can also make reservations online at www.svt.se, following the links “kontakt” and “vara publik?”

Address: Frescativägen 40 (Located at the Museum of Natural History)
Opening hours, tickets, etc: www.nrm.se
Ticket reservations: 08-562 600 30
Current program: www.nrm.se
Busses: 40, 540
Subway station: Universitetet
Directions: www.nrm.se

When you see a film at Cosmonova it’s like stepping into the movie.

At Cosmonova, the film is projected through a fish-eye lens onto the giant overhead dome screen from a position near the center of the theatre seating area. With breathtaking giant images and wrap-around 12,000-watt digital sound, the IMAX Dome theatre system puts you in the center of the action, which is really cool.

The films they show vary from hikes to the top of Mt. Everest to a journey into the human body. At Cosmonova you may get a chance to see men and women experiencing the weightlessness of space or dive into the undersea world of the most fearsome great white sharks. At Cosmonova, you feel like you’re really there.

Unfortunately, you have to be at least five years-old to be admitted to Cosmonova. But if the family has to split up, the Museum of Natural History, which is in the same building, has plenty of interesting things to do.

On weekends and school holidays it’s a good idea to reserve tickets in advance. This can be done by phone at 08-562 600 30. And one other thing, if you want to hear the film’s English soundtrack you can rent earpieces at the box-office.

If you don’t speak Swedish you should probably skip all the Swedish movies, of course, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go to the movies at all. You see, the Swedes rarely dub foreign films into their language. They subtitle them instead. That means that if you attend a British, American or Australian movie, for example, the sound track will be in English and the text at the bottom of the screen will be in Swedish.

The one exception to this subtitling rule is animated film. Feature-length cartoons are usually dubbed into Swedish, so small children who have not yet learned to read can understand them. In recent years, however, Disney films have often been distributed in two versions, one dubbed and the other subtitled. If you want to be absolutely sure that the film you plan to see has an English soundtrack, call the cinema in advance.

Here’s something else to think about: In a Swedish multiplex cinema, theater #1 almost always has the largest screen. If you’re planning to see a movie extravaganza like Star Wars, for example, it might be a good idea to ask if it’s being screened in theater #1. A big movie, after all, is almost always more fun to see on a really big screen.
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Filmstaden (Film City) Sergel

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Subway station: Hötorget
Located on Hötorget, this is Swedish Film’s (SF’s) big, downtown showcase cinema. It’s a multiplex cinema, of course, with a large choice of films. Their largest theater (#1) is equipped with 700 seats and an enormous screen. Theater #1 is so large that it has a 14-row balcony (that is as large as most normal cinemas in the United States these days). More viewers means more shared laughter, sighs or even screams—in other words, much more fun. To find out what’s playing, call 08-56 26 00 00, browse SF’s Swedish language website—which can be an adventure in itself—or check a local paper. The website may only be in Swedish, but it is rich in pictures and many of the movies have the same title these days in both Swedish and English.
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Biopalatset (The Cinema Palace)

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Subway station: Medborgarplatsen
Located at Medborgarplatsen on the island of Södern, this multiplex theater was renamed Filmstaden Söder in the spring of 2007 when it was purchased by SF from the bankrupt Astoria movie chain. Most people in Stockholm still call it “Biopalatset” though. While Astoria and SF used to distribute two different lists of movies, Filmstaden Söder now shows most of the same films that other SF theaters are showing.

Although foreign film sound quality can sometimes be a problem at other Stockholm movie houses, in this “movie palace”, all ten theaters have genuinely excellent sound systems. SF claims that the acoustic effect of the sound in theater number 1 is the equivalent of 22 symphony orchestras! To find out what’s playing here, use the SF number listed above, browse their Swedish language website or check the movie ads in a local paper.
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Biogaf Sture

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Subway station: Hötorget, Rådmansgatan or Östermalmstorg, see map.
Biograf Sture is located at Birgir Jarlsgatan 41 and first opened its doors in 1920. It’s been renovated several times since then, of course, but still has the look and feel of an old-fashioned cinema. Originally, the Sture just had a single, large theater, but a few years back the owners converted the large mezzanine into two smaller viewing rooms. They did, however, leave the original theater in very good condition and each of the three theaters has its own charm—the small ones because you get to sit close to the action without craning your neck, while the large theater’s charm lies in its old-fashioned style.

Biograf Sture offers something they call Babybio or “Baby cinema” every other Friday during the daytime. Here parents with really small children can watch a movie together with their babies. I’ve actually never attended, but it sounds like an intriguing idea.

To get a glimpse of Biograf Sture and its film schedule, browse their Swedish-only website, call 08-678 85 48, or check the newspapers.
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Filmstaden (Film City) Heron City

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Subway station: Skärholmen, see directions below.
Scandinavia’s largest multiplex cinema is the Heron City complex about 25 minutes south of the center of Stockholm by subway. (Take the red line to the Skärholmen station and then a connecting bus to the “upplevelsecentrum” bus stop.) You’ll find 18 screens here and stadium seating for about 4500 people. Call 08-50 56 01 00, browse their Swedish language website or check the newspaper movie ads for more information.
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Address: Globentorget 2
Phone: 08-725 10 00
Ticket reservations: 077-131 00 00
Online information: www.globearenas.se
Subway station: Globen

The Stockholm Globe is the largest spherical arena in the world, and the inside feels almost like a futuristic, stainless steel spaceship. For many people, it has become the defining silhouette of the Stockholm skyline.

The main arena seats as many as 16,000 spectators for such indoor sporting events as basketball, ice hockey, indoor track & field, motorcycle competitions and equestrian events. Musicals, concerts, circuses and even a mass led by the Pope have also been held there over the last few years.

For more information about all upcoming events at the Globe Arenas, you can browse their website, or call the number above. Ordering tickets in advance of your visit to Stockholm is always a good idea, since many popular events fill the arena completely.